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Dawlance Washing Machine Error Codes: Complete List and Fixes

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When a Dawlance automatic washing machine stops mid-cycle, the code on the display tells you exactly what went wrong. This is the complete Dawlance washing machine error code list — the basic E-series codes, the extended E10 to E14 range, and the F, U, C and H series — with causes and fixes for each.

The codes people see most
E1 is a water inlet problem, E2 is drainage, E4 is the door lock and U1 (sometimes shown as EA) is simply an unbalanced load. Those four cover the majority of real-world cases, and three of them you can usually clear yourself.
Before you start
Switch the machine off at the socket before checking hoses, the drain filter or the drum. Water and mains electricity together are dangerous, and most of the checks below need the power off anyway.

Dawlance Washing Machine Error Codes: Full List #

Basic E-series codes #

Code Means Likely cause What to do
E1 Water inlet error Low water pressure or blocked inlet valve Check the tap is open and the pressure is adequate, and clear any blockage or kink in the inlet hose.
E2 Drainage error Blocked drain hose or failing pump Inspect the drain hose for clogs and clean the filter. If it continues, the drain pump needs servicing.
E3 Spin cycle error Unbalanced or unevenly distributed load Pause and redistribute the laundry evenly in the drum.
E4 Door lock error Door not securely closed, or a faulty latch Make sure the door is latched properly. If it persists, the lock mechanism needs replacing.
E5 Water overflow error Faulty water level sensor or excessive intake Switch off and check for blockages at the water inlet. The level sensor may need inspecting.
E9 EEPROM / memory error Control board memory fault Not user-serviceable. Technician required.

Extended E-series codes #

Code Means Likely cause What to do
E10 Water pressure sensor error Faulty water pressure sensor Have the sensor checked and replaced if needed.
E11 Heating error Malfunction in the heating system Inspect the heating element and replace if necessary.
E12 Door sensor malfunction Faulty door sensor Check the door sensor and replace if defective.
E13 Drain pump error Pump malfunction or obstruction Clean the drain pump filter; replace the pump if required.
E14 Overflow detected Excessive water intake or sensor issue Inspect the water level sensor and avoid overfilling.

F, U, C and H series codes #

Code Means Likely cause What to do
F1 Motor control error Motor control fault Technician required — usually a component replacement.
F2 Heating element error Faulty heating element Technician required. The machine may still run cold cycles.
F3 Power failure during operation Power interruption mid-cycle Restart once the supply is stable. Common during load shedding.
F4 Memory error EEPROM or memory failure Technician required to inspect or replace the control board.
F5 Control panel malfunction Fault in the control panel circuitry Have the control panel inspected and repaired.
U1 / EA Unbalanced load detected Laundry unevenly distributed Pause, open the door, spread the washing out and restart.
U2 Motor error Overloaded motor, or motor failure Reduce the load size. If it persists, call a technician.
C1 Detergent dispenser error Blocked or faulty detergent drawer Clean the dispenser drawer and check for mechanical obstruction.
C2 Foam detected Too much detergent, or the wrong type Use less detergent, and one made for automatic machines. Run a rinse to clear the foam.
H1 Temperature control error Temperature sensor malfunction Inspect and replace the temperature sensor if needed.
H2 Low water temperature error Water not heating properly Check the heating element; contact support if unresolved.
dE Door error Door not properly closed Make sure the door is shut and the latch is working.
IE Inlet error Low water pressure or inlet valve issue Check water pressure and make sure the inlet valve is not blocked.
OE Drainage overflow error Blocked drain or drain pump malfunction Inspect and clear the drain hose and pump.

The most common Dawlance codes explained #

E1 and IE — the machine will not fill #

Both point at the same thing: water is not getting in fast enough. Check the tap is fully open, the inlet hose is not kinked behind the machine, and the small mesh filter where the hose screws onto the machine is not clogged with grit — that last one is the most commonly missed cause. Weak mains pressure alone is enough to trigger it, so if the machine also fills slowly at other times, the supply is the problem rather than the machine.

E2 and OE — the water will not drain #

Start with the drain filter behind the small hatch at the front bottom of the machine. Lay towels and a shallow tray down first, because water will come out when you open it. Clear the lint, coins and buttons that collect there, then check the drain hose is not kinked or pushed too far into the waste pipe. Only if both are clear is the pump itself likely to be at fault.

U1 and EA — unbalanced load #

This is not a fault. The machine has detected the load bunched on one side and stopped rather than spin it and damage the bearings. Open the door, spread the washing out and restart. A single heavy item such as a quilt or a rug is almost always the cause; adding a couple of towels to balance the drum usually solves it.

C2 — too much foam #

The machine has detected excessive foam and paused to avoid overflowing. Two causes: too much detergent, or detergent not made for automatic machines. Run a rinse cycle to clear it, then reduce the dose. More detergent does not wash better — it leaves residue in the fabric and in the drum.

How to reset a Dawlance washing machine #

A reset clears a code left on the display after the cause has already gone — a momentary power dip, a door that was not quite latched, or a one-off drain delay. It will not fix a genuine fault, but it takes a minute and costs nothing.

  1. Press the power button to switch the machine off.
  2. Unplug it at the socket, or switch off its breaker.
  3. Leave it disconnected for 5 minutes so the control board fully discharges.
  4. Plug it back in and switch on. Select a short cycle to confirm the code has gone.
  5. If the same code returns straight away, it is a real fault — note the code before calling a technician.

Which codes you can clear yourself, and which need a technician #

Type of fault Can you fix it? What to do
Water inlet — no or slow fill Usually yes Check the tap is fully open, the inlet hose is not kinked, and the small mesh filter at the hose connection is not blocked with grit.
Drainage — water not emptying Usually yes Clean the drain filter at the front bottom of the machine and check the drain hose is not kinked or pushed too far into the drain.
Unbalanced load Yes Pause, open the door and spread the washing out evenly. A single heavy item such as a quilt or a rug is the usual culprit.
Foam or detergent overdose Yes Use less detergent, and use one made for automatic machines. Run a rinse cycle to clear the excess foam.
Door lock fault Sometimes Check nothing is trapped in the seal and the door clicks shut. If it still will not lock, the interlock needs replacing.
Sensor, motor, heater or control board No These need a technician. Note the exact code before calling — it shortens the diagnosis considerably.

How to avoid error codes in the first place #

  1. Clean the drain filter monthly. It sits behind a small hatch at the front bottom of most machines and catches coins, buttons and lint. A blocked filter is the single most common cause of drainage codes.
  2. Use the right amount of the right detergent. Automatic machines need low-foaming detergent, and more is not better — excess foam triggers foam-detection errors and leaves residue in the drum.
  3. Do not overload the drum. Overloading causes unbalanced-load errors, strains the motor and stops clothes rinsing properly. Leave a hand’s width at the top.
  4. Check water pressure. Many inlet errors in Pakistan are simply weak supply. If the machine fills slowly at other times too, the problem is the supply, not the machine.
  5. Wipe the door seal and leave the door ajar. This prevents mould and stops the seal perishing, which is what eventually causes door and leak faults.
  6. Clean the detergent drawer. Caked powder blocks the dispenser and triggers dispenser errors.

Frequently Asked Questions #

What does E1 mean on a Dawlance washing machine?
E1 is a water inlet error — the machine cannot fill quickly enough. Check the tap is fully open, look for kinks in the inlet hose, and clean the small mesh filter where the hose connects to the machine. Weak mains water pressure alone is often enough to trigger it.
What does E2 mean on a Dawlance washing machine?
E2 is a drainage error. Clean the drain filter behind the hatch at the front bottom of the machine, and check the drain hose is not kinked or pushed too far into the waste pipe. If the code returns after that, the drain pump likely needs servicing.
How do I fix a U1 or EA unbalanced load error?
Pause the cycle, open the door and redistribute the laundry evenly around the drum, then restart. It is not a fault — the machine has stopped to avoid spinning an unbalanced drum. A single heavy item such as a quilt is the usual cause.
What does the E4 error code mean on a Dawlance washing machine?
E4 is a door lock error. Make sure nothing is caught in the door seal and that the door clicks properly shut. If the code persists with the door correctly closed, the door lock mechanism has failed and needs replacing by a technician.
How do I reset a Dawlance washing machine?
Switch the machine off and unplug it for about five minutes so the control board discharges, then plug it back in and run a short cycle. This clears codes left over after the cause has gone, but it will not repair a genuine fault.
What does the C2 foam error mean?
C2 means the machine has detected too much foam and paused to avoid overflowing. Use less detergent and make sure it is a low-foaming type made for automatic machines. Run a rinse cycle to clear the existing foam before restarting.
What do the F series codes mean on a Dawlance washing machine?
The F series relates to the motor, control board and heating element — F1 is a motor control error, F2 a heating element fault, F4 a memory error and F5 a control panel fault. These are not user-serviceable and need a technician. F3 is the exception: it simply means the power was interrupted mid-cycle, which is common during load shedding, and restarting on a stable supply clears it.

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